Chinese cuisine of subtraction in Ginza

Pulling customers from everywhere in Japan, Kaikatei (開花亭) has become a very famous Chinese restaurant in Gifu, a prefecture in the middle of Japan. The owner chef, Mr. Hitoshi Furuta turned over the restaurant to his son and opened his own new restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo.

Named after his family name, Furuta (フルタ) stands on a street in Ginza. The Chinese restaurant is not an ordinary ones in terms of its sophisticated taste and striking bill – the restaurant serves course menu at JPY30,000/JPY50,000/JPY70,000/JPY100,000. You may hesitate, seeing the budget. However, I guarantee that you can have an incredible experience here.

Menu ranges from JPY30,000 to JPY100,000. Expensive, but surely worthwhile trying. (photo from Tabelog)

The specialty of the restaurant is rice noodle with caviar (キャビアビーフン) and shark fin stake (フカヒレステーキ).

Caviar rice noodle (photo from Tabelog)

It is impressive that he uses only salt, white pepper, and white sesame oil as seasonings, while the dish has very rich taste. “With high quality caviars, no other seasonings are needed”, said Mr. Furuta. He uses the same brand of caviar as Joel Robuchon, the Michelin 3-stars French restaurant.

Shark fin stake (photo from Tabelog)

Mr. Furuta deliberately cooks shark fins with his special shangtan soup stock which he made with a whole chicken and Chinese Jinhua ham, one of the 3 greatest hams in the world – others are Jamón Serrano in Spain and Prosciutto in Italy. The rich taste of the soup gets through the shark fin’s body. The fins are served after roasted on the pan. You will feel the spicy savoy first and then your mouth will be filled with the rich soup steeping from the fins.

The restaurant has only 8 sheets on the clean straight counter table. (photo from Tabelog)

Furuta’s Chinese cuisine is very sophisticated and he does not uses so many variety of Chinese sources or seasonings as do ordinary Chinese cooks. “To enhance the high quality of the foodstuff, I subtract as many factors as possible”, says Mr. Furuta. The philosophy has something in common with Japanese cuisine which is called the cuisine of subtraction.

Furuta (フルタ)
1-21-14, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan
Closed on Monday and Sunday


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